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There's nothing like a looming snowstorm big enough to go its own proper name — "Hey, is this one named after the Jonas Brothers?" (no) — to make y'all fret you should take bought a Subaru Forester, Jeep Cherokee, or some other car known for all-wheel-drive and the ability to turn through snowfall. Here'south a quick guide to the technology — including all-cycle-bulldoze versus four-wheel-drive – that will and won't get your auto through winter storm Jonas, and the next i, and the i subsequently that.

We won't get through the usual stuff almost a couple of cinder blocks in the trunk for traction and the first aid kit and space blanket plus shovel. You've heard that enough.

Toyota Sienna Snow clip

High-tech driver aids hobbled

The engineering aids we praise when the sun is shining — adaptive cruise control, bullheaded spot detection, lane difference alert? Fuggedaboutit. Snow, ice, and road grime cake the sensors. All have failure warnings. If they can't sense the road ahead, they warn you and shut down. Y'all'll know you lot're on your own.

Y'all could pull off where it's prophylactic — which may not exist possible on the interstate, where it'south unclear as to where the breakdown lane really is — and clean the half-dozen or more sensors, then repeat it every couple miles. Assuming you know where the sensors are. The radar sensor for ACC may exist a postcard size patch of blackness plastic in or under the grille, backside the grille logo, or it may look similar a small round fog lamp. The lane difference alert / forrad collision warning sensor is in the windshield mirror cluster. The blind spot detection sensor usually is the round dots on the sides and back of the rear bumper.

Radar's effectiveness, even with a merely-cleaned sensor, diminishes in rain or snow. Only it could warn y'all of a quickly slowing car y'all can't really make out in the whiteout. It won't find a car that spun and stalled in the heart of the road; near radar today ignores stationary objects.

The optical sensors for LDW and FCW are affected past snowfall (also pelting, also fog). Anyway, the snow is covering the lane markings.

The applied science that keeps on working is telematics such equally GM's OnStar, so if you are in an accident, the location is noted and automatically reported. Eventually, assist will get to you lot.

RAV4 in snow clip

Front end-drive vs. all-wheel-drive vs. four-wheel-bulldoze

The day earlier a big storm, information technology's quicker to accept delivery of a new car with all-cycle-drive than wait to accept snowfall tires installed. Also more expensive. Hither's a rundown of unlike drivetrains, so you'll feel better most the car you bought, or know more for next time.

Rear-drive. The engine is in front and the rear wheels are driven. Information technology's the best setup for driving at a racetrack and information technology works well most of the time. Traction control and stability control (see below) make rear drive cars much better than the same machine of 25 years ago. In the snow, this machine probably should be left in the garage (if you take a option), equipped with all-season tires at the least, and snow tires (labeled M+S for mud + snowfall) if yous get snow regularly. Cars with the rear wheels driven a) don't have the weight of the engine directly over them (except some Porsches) and b) rear-drive makes the car more than likely to fishtail, or slide left-right-left when accelerating, something that has been curtailed with the traction control that is on about cars today.

Forepart-bulldoze. The engine is in front end and sits over the driven wheels. It makes for a roomier motorcar of the same length (no driveshaft) and better traction. The majority of loftier-volume cars are front end-drive. Mainstream front-drive cars typically take all-flavour tires that are a decent compromise among dry, wet, and snowy roads. When a storm is big plenty to get its ain proper name, you're meliorate off with true snow tires.

All-wheel-drive. All-bicycle-drive virtually typically means a front- or rear-drive machine that has been modified to drive all four wheels. The bulk of ability flows to the forepart if the motorcar started life front-drive, or to the rear if it started rear-bulldoze. Sometimes the opposite end gets zero power until information technology's called for. Subaru, with its praised symmetrical all-bicycle-bulldoze, always delivers at to the lowest degree a fifth of the power to the rear wheels. If you alive in the Washington, DC, suburbs where Jonas hits hardest, you'll wish you had snow tires. For the adjacent week, even. You'll practise okay if you stay off the roads completely for 36 hours. Once the roads are down to three inches of snow, have at it, carefully.

Four-bicycle-drive. The term, when used properly, means a vehicle that has two differentials (to permit for the speed difference between left and correct wheels in a corner) and a transfer case (to allow for the speed difference between forepart and rear wheels). On serious 4WD systems, in that location may be a low-range control that lets the vehicle creep along at 5 mph and lock all four wheels to go exactly the same speed. This is useful when pulling a 5,000 boat and trailer upwards a slippery launching ramp, or extricating yourself from mud on the subcontract. It is more oft what happens in truck commercials.

"4-bicycle-drive" is used a lot to describe a lot to describe all-bike-drive vehicles that, technically, are not.

Impact of AWD, 4WD on braking: none

All-bicycle-drive and iv-wheel-drive advance better in the snow than front-drive, which accelerates better than rear-bulldoze (again, in the snowfall). You also sit up college in an AWD crossover or SUV, which appeals to some drivers and gives them a sense of safe. Stopping is some other matter: AWD won't stop you lot any faster. Information technology'southward pretty much a measure out of the tires' power to create friction with the snow, ice, snowmelt, and road sand atop the pavement, aided by your anti-lock brakes. Traffic researchers say drivers may become a false sense of confidence with AWD/4WD vehicles, since they got upwardly to speed nicely, churning up a rooster tail of snowfall backside.

GMCTerrainWinterDriving34.jpg

Traction control, stability control blur the lines

Every car is pretty adept in lite snow now because of electronic aids. They're no longer optional; instead, they're standard on most every car on the road today. The exception is torque vectoring.

Anti-lock braking arrangement (ABS). When you're braking and the automobile slips on snow, ice, gravel, or rain, ABS pumps the brakes on and off up to 15 times a second. This is the vibration you feel in the restriction pedal. Consequence: The iv wheel-spin sensors report to a fundamental controller, which unlocks the brakes if the wheel stopped turning (skidding), then reapplies the brakes, etcetera. The machine stops in a straight line.

A generation ago, earlier ABS, drivers were to taught to pump the brakes, simply the best they could practise was a couple times a 2nd. You lot probably have a nutty uncle who, at the dawn of ABS, claimed he could do it faster and better. He was wrong on that, too. This is non a buying option. Every car has it. All you have to remember is: Pedal to the flooring, don't lift until the car stops. New drivers should try ABS in a moisture or snowy parking lot gratuitous of other cars, light stanchions, and mall cops to get used to the pulsing. (The brakes aren't failing. The judder is normal.)

Electronic stability control (ESC). Required since 2012, ESC limits sliding and reduces rollovers. ESC uses the ABS sensors and adds steering angle yaw (veering left or right) and acceleration sensors. If you jerk the cycle hard left or right to avoid an obstacle, the car wants to slide, since it tin can't maintain a grip on the road. ESC automatically applies infinitesimal amounts of braking to private wheels to bring the machine under control. Rollover accidents and fatalities are style down on SUVs in the last decade. It's not because drivers of Chevy Suburbans and Lincoln Navigators all went to skid school; it'due south considering of ESC.

Traction control. This limits individual wheelspin when accelerating from a finish, or trying to go from 40 to 45 mph quickly on snow. Without traction control, the machine wants to give more power to the wheel that has less traction (the spinning wheel). Traction control reduces overall engine power and, milliseconds later if that doesn't happen, information technology applies a light braking forcefulness to the spinning wheel, effectively increasing power to the cycle not spinning.

Torque vectoring. Torque vectoring actively shifts ability to the outside rear bicycle in a plow, slightly more than required by the radius of the outer wheel's path. The best known is Acura's Super Handling All-Wheel-Bulldoze (SH-AWD). Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz did their ain versions, for all-wheel-drive cars. These were mechanical solutions, highly effective, that still added weight and cost. Other automakers have tweaked their ABS/ESC/traction control systems to brake the inside bicycle in a plough, which effectively speeds up the exterior wheel. Early systems such as SH-AWD were for the rear wheels only. As systems evolve, they work not only nether acceleration (powering you lot through a plow) but also under braking (getting you safely through a plow you took besides fast).

RedCarBlackSnowTire

The single biggest deviation: car, tires, or … ?

It's a toss-up whether you're better off in a forepart-bulldoze motorcar with snowfall tires versus an all-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive vehicle with the tires that came with the vehicle. Snow tires are powerful traction motivators, especially in deeper snow, meaning more than than six inches. At the same time, lots of AWD cars already come with all-flavor tires and they do a more-than-passable chore.

The safest recommendation is this: If y'all've got a functioning car with summer tires, y'all have no business beingness out in the snow. The treads aren't suited for snow and (less-known fact) the compound in the rubber works poorly below 50 degrees. Also, performance tires are riding on low-profile wheels, significant the ratio of tire height to tire width is less than 50% (example: the 255/R40-19 optional tires on a Ford Mustang are forty% as high as they are wide), and those plush alloy wheels are susceptible to potholes.

Actually, the biggest difference is the driver who decides to stay abode. Interesting factoid: Highway safety researchers say that the sooner roads are plowed, sanded, and salted, the sooner more than motorists venture out … and get into accidents.

_MG_8521

Personal observations on winter driving

Over the by decade, I've taken part in winter driving schools and an ice test facility (a hockey rink). I've driven a Chevrolet Camaro from Washington to New York in a blinding snowstorm and made information technology with little hassle, because the auto had cut-border snow tires. But out of college, I fabricated information technology upwardly the snowy access road to Mad River Glen ski area in Vermont past adding weight to the body of a Mustang (my hereafter wife; we flipped for it). Here's what I can offer every bit suggestions for mixing technology and common sense insights.

If you have a rear-drive automobile with regular tires, park it for the next couple days. That'south what I'm doing.

If y'all have a front end-bulldoze car or all-cycle-drive car with what's marked as all-flavor tires and they withal have most of their tread, you'll be okay in suburban metro areas where the snowfall is cleared in a solar day or so. If you lot live in snow country, you probably already bought snowfall tires.

If you practise get snowfall tires, get four, non two. The departure is noticeable in snow. On dry roads, the handling will feel off. Besides, get a 2d fix of wheels (rims) so you don't pay to have the wheels swapped each season. Steel rims are okay; their weight is a lot closer to aluminum alloy. Some research says tires marked "all-season" are roughly every bit adept every bit snow tires in 3-6 inches of snowfall, and snow tires win out equally snow gets deeper.

Studded tires brand a huge difference on ice. Consider them if you're deep in snow land. Check on country rules where y'all live and where you'll drive. Most northeastern states allow them November to April, merely some midwestern states with large snowfall — Michigan, Minnesota — don't. Become used to the noise on dry out roads at highway speeds.

The safety in tires wears out (from exposure to air) in about 7 years. If you've had the snowfall tires for a decade, you lot probably shouldn't exist using them. You take a chance a blowout or sidewall failure at speed.

Not-techie stuff: If yous haven't already, make certain you have new wiper blades (new in the final year) and windshield washer fluid. If you lot self-install the blades, lay a slice of cardboard or 2 folds of an old towel across the windshield so the wiper arm doesn't snap back and crack the windshield. Fill the tank with gas and proceed it filled, because moisture collects in a well-nigh-empty tank.

Actress credit: snowblower winter driving

If you're as well finally getting the snowblower ready: Don't use last yr's gasoline. The ethanol content in motor fuel makes gasoline dethrone over several months. Fuel stabilizer (such as Stabil) prolongs the fuel, but not indefinitely. Set up aside final year'south one-half-full gasoline can to accept it your town's hazardous waste material twenty-four hours when that rolls around. Purchase a new gas tin, put information technology on the ground (equally in grounded to avoid a static spark) when fueling (don't leave it in the auto), add stabilizer right now. And what you don't use by bound, put that in your machine. Buy a new load of gas for your lawn mower, which you hopefully ran dry last fall, and so either left dry or filled with ethanol-free fuel ($20 a gallon at a home practiced store!).

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